Chung cake and Tet cake: A Taste of History

"Special  tet cakes have a long and  meaningful  history and remain Vietnamese tradition for Lunar New Year."

There are two integral types of savory cakes in the traditional Vietnamese Tet (Lunar New Year) celebration: chung cake and tet cake. Though very different in shape and size, both are made of glutinous rice, fatty pork and mung beans and wrapped in green banana leaves. As legend has it, chung cake was invented at the very dawn of the country when Prince Lieu, the son of a Hung King, selected the choicest ingredients of the wet-cultivation civilization to create a culinary symbol of his country. Tet cake, on the other hand, was created long afterwards in association with the southern territorial extension of Vietnamese migrants. Geographically, chung cake is unique to the North, home to rural areas that were established millennia ago, while tet cake is southern, reflecting the claiming of newfound lands in the South and territorial extensions of migrants.

Cultural researchers assume that chung cakes and their square shape complement round rice buns in reference to the "round sky and square earth" conception of the universe held by the ancient Vietnamese. However, no one is able to explain the significance of the tet cake. I am a Hue native and a descendant of migrants who left behind their homeland to populate the frontier land of the South over seven centuries ago. For me, the legacies of tet cakes are always linked with "the pole of the nation" by my ancestors during their territorial claims. Thanks to their toils, Vietnam acquired the shape it has today. The "national pole"of the center bears resemblance to the hard life of every Vietnamese mother who sustains the two ends of the country, the North and the South.

Unlike chung cakes that will perish after a short time, tet cakes are durable and can be left intact for even a week without losing their original taste. This was an invention of migrants as a solution for their mobile lives. During wartime, southern people lost their festive joy for many years because of military conflicts; tet cake were the only delicacy of Tet they could take for solace in those turbulent times.

Why the name tet? Many assume that the elongated shape of the cake allows cutting and peeling ( tet), thus its current name. The dictionary explains that all three words Tet (Lunar New Year), tet (tet cake) and tiet (period) were derived from the Chinese word. The word has various meanings, including Lunar New Year holidays. Hence, tet cakes can also be understood as the "cake of Tet holidays;' despite the fact that locals in the Center and South consume the cake all year round.

From the quintessential cake of migrants that was made of glutinous rice, tet cakes evolved into a specialty of Tet holidays when filled with fatty pork and green beans; they are also a sacrifice on ancestral altars in New Year celebrations and a formal, familiar food offered to visiting guests on Tet holidays, memorial ceremonies or weddings. In many impoverished regions in the Center, tet cakes were not filled with pork and green beans
but instead red beans stuffed into white glutinous rice.



Chuon village in Hue, also known as. An Truyen Village in Phu Vang D1str1ct, is known for its tet-making traditions. Nowadays, the village's specialty is on sale all year round, although Tet holidays are still the peak sale season of this renowned culinary village. Its tet cakes are made out of the sticky, quality glutinous rice of Dinh. According to historical accounts of the Nguyen Dynasty, the court each year required hundreds of top-notch glutinous liquor jars to sacrifice to Heaven, Earth and the deities in New Year sacrifices as well as to ancestors in memorial ceremonies. Thus, the court had the Ministry of Internal Affairs select superior glutinous rice species and assign liquor-making villages in Thua Thien Province to be dedicated to the king. An Truyen Village in the southeast of the Citadel was among the recipients of these superior glutinous rice species for liquor making and emerged to be the best-known liquor making village in the capital. Fertile fields of this peaceful village were sufficient not only for supplies of rice to make ceremonial liquor, but also for the making of the village's signature tet cakes, colloquially known by the name of Chuon Village.

When year-end rains temporarily cease and farm work is over, Chuon Village enters the peak season of tet cakes. Lush green banana leaves are spread across large sieves to be cleaned of their pollen. Men chop bamboo trees to make strings. Women sort out rice grains, soak green beans and slice pork to prepare the fillings. While the making of chung cakes largely relies on molds to shape the square cakes, tet cakes require years of experience to produce a perfectly cylindrical shape. In the last week before Tet, villagers are busy rolling banana leaves, pouring green beans, stuffing fillings and wrapping cakes as fires smolder day and night. The quality and shape of final products depend on the tying. Bamboo strings are tied in pairs at a finger knuckle's distance, which also dictates the size of each bite before being peeled off.

Two days before Tet (December 30th of the Lunar calendar), tet vendors from Chuon Village travel throughout Hue to sell their products for the year end Tet eve feast. After ceremonies, tet cakes are taken from altars, peeled open and served with pork and fermented cabbage for the last reunion dinner of the year; this meal signals the conclusion of the whole year and welcomes the spring.

Tran Duc Anh Son

Traditional Treats for Tet (Lunar New Year)

In the spiritual life of Vietnamese people, Tet Nguyen Dan (Lunar New Year Day) represents a fresh start for family, community and the whole nation. No matter how humble a family is, they prepare a hearty banquet to pay respects to ancestors and welcome their relatives home.

In the past, all markets were closed on New Year's Day. Therefore, people usually cooked foods in advance that could be preserved, using methods such as sun-drying, grilling with sugar, fermentation and careful wrapping. Despite differences in soil and weather in many different areas, a typical Tet meal contains square chung cake and the rounder tet cake. Chung cake is typical of the North, while tet cake is more common in the South.

Each regions also has many other kinds of cakes, such as te cake (rice cake) or rang bua cake in the North, to cake and la cake in the Center, and it cake in the South.

Several varieties of jams, as well as pickled items are also typical Tet treats. The North has pickled onion, the Center has pickled vegetables and the South has pickled bean sprouts or leek. Traditionally, a tray for Lunar New Year includes four bowls and four dishes, while a large tray may have eight bowls and eight dishes. The four bowls include pig's trotters stew with bamboo sprout and pork tongue, dried pig's skin soup, soya noodles and ground pork. The four dishes include chicken, pork, cinnamon and pork pie. More dishes can be added, such as jellied pork, pig's head paste, fried almond, fish cooked with sauce and ginger, kohlrabi salad or water dropwort salad.

The legend of Vietnam's Tet cakes

Long ago, the sixteenth Hung king ruled the country. As the king was growing old he decided to choose an heir from amongst his 22 adult sons. The king decided to hold a contest. He ordered his sons to line up and said: "The time has come to pass my throne to one of you. Now go and seek a unique food to sacrifice to your ancestors. The one whose sacrifice pleases me the most will be my heir."

The princes traveled far and wide in search of rare delicacies. They crossed seas and climbed mountains. Prince Lieu was the eighteenth son. Since his mother had died when he was young, he had a lonely childhood. While the other princes scoured the land for rare foods, Prince Lieu lay at home. He knew nothing about fine food. Just three days before the contest's ending, Prince Lieu had nothing to off er. He lay awake thinking of the different feasts he had attended. Finally, he fell asleep and dreamt that he and his half-brothers were competing to make the finest cake. A goddess appeared in his dream and said: "Nothing can be as big as the heaven and the earth, or as precious as rice. More doesn't work, two is enough. Sort out the glutinous rice and find some green beans."

Prince Lieu saw the goddess take some broad green leaves. She wrapped them around her cake and explained: "This cake represents the earth. Because it has green fields, trees and mountains, the color should be green and the shape square. The cake is filled with beans and fatty pork as symbols of the plants and animals ... Cook the glutinous rice and pound it to make a cake that represents heaven: white and round like the firmament ..."

Upon waking, Prince Lieu set about making the two cakes he had seen in his dream. On the day of the contest huge crowds gathered. People were eager to watch the contest and see the coronation of a new king. As the sun rose, the old king was carried on a palanquin to his ancestral altar. Gongs and drums boomed.

The princes presented many strange delicacies, including pheasant rolls, phoenix terrines, bear arms and pangolin livers ... Beside these rarities Prince Lieu placed his rustic offering. Upon first seeing his cake, the onlookers scoff ed. But after tasting it, they were amazed.

"This is an extraordinary product made with insignificant materials" said the Chamberlain. The old king asked Prince Lieu for the recipe. The young prince described his method and reported his strange dream. At midday, the elderly Hung king declared the winner. Prince Lieu would ascend the throne. The king showed his subjects the prince's two cakes. "As well as tasting good, these cakes remind us that the love of a child for their parents is like the love of heaven and earth and our love for our country. They are easy to make using the gifts of the gods. Their inventor was a genius to create such a meaningful offering."

Until now, each Lunar New Year, Vietnamese people prepare chung (square) cakes and day (round) buns to sacrifice to their ancestors. After his coronation, Prince Lieu was honored with the title. Tiet Lieu Vuong, or the seventeenth Hung King.

Hanoi’s food to get Asian Record’s certificates

The Asian Record’s Organisation is about to grant certificates recognising Hanoi’s three unique dishes for their meeting Asian culinary values.
The certificates will be awarded at a festival featuring tourism products of traditional craft villages in Hanoi and the Red River Delta scheduled for October 8-12, said Mai Tien Dung, deputy head of the municipal Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism on October 3.

The three specialty include Pho (noodle soup served with beef and chicken); Bun cha (rice noodle served with grilled pork); and Bun thang (rice noodle soup served with chicken, fried egg strands, lean meat pie strands and mushroom).

Another six dishes will be also awarded certificates by the Vietnam Record’s Organization, including Cha ca (fried fish served with noodles and scallions) La Vong; Banhcuon (steamed rolled rice pancake) Thanh Tri; Mo (apricot) Huong Son; Canh orange; Banh com (green rice flake cake) Hang Than; and O mai (salted dry fruits) Hang Duong.

Food has been embedded as Hanoi’s typical cultural characteristic and unique tourism product.
In the coming time, the city tourism industry will continue its efforts to promote Vietnamese dishes to the world by introducing them into multilingual leaflets and booklets at tourism fairs.

Source: VOV.VN

Vietnamese Noodles

South-east Asian cooking uses noodles in great quantities. If the main dish doesn't contain rice to provide the starch content of the meal, then it will consist of noodles. They are eaten at all hours of the day, in a soup for breakfast, simply stir-fried for a quick and filling snack, or more elaborately incorporated into a main dish with meat, fish and vegetables. It is no wonder that the most common type of food stall in Vietnam is the "rice and noodle" shop, as these two ingredients form the basis of every dish.
In Vietnam and Cambodia, there are a variety of noodles, many of them made from rice. The everyday noodles in Vietnam fall into three main types: bun, which are long and thin, similar to Italian vermicelli and called rice sticks - they are used in soups, side dishes, and as a wrapping for meat and seafood; banh pho, also called rice sticks, but they are flatter , thicker and sturdier, ideal for substantial soups such as pho, and stir-fries; and the fine banh hoi which resemble angel hair pasta and are primarily used in thin broths.

DRIED  RICE  "VERMICELLI"  NOODLES
Often referred to as vermicelli, these dried rice noodles (bun), made from rice flour, salt and water, are thin and wiry and sold in bundles. Before using, they must be soaked in water until pliable and then the noodles only need to be cooked in boiling water for a few seconds, until tender and al dente like Italian pasta. In Vietnam, these noodles are used in soups and salads - they are often used to wrap around raw vegetables and herbs in Vietnamese table salad, as well as to wrap around grilled meats and shellfish.

DRIED  RICE STICKS
These flat, thin dried rice noodles (banh pho) resemble linguine and are available in several widths, which start at around 2mm. Also made from rice flour, salt and water, they are used in salads and stir-fries, after being softened in water.

FRESH RICE NOODLES
Known as banh pho tuoi, fresh rice noodles are thicker than dried ones. They are often served as a side dish with curries and vegetable dishes. Like the dried variety, they require minimal cooking. In some recipes they are just dipped in warm water to heat them up, or they are added at the last moment to stir-fried and steamed dishes . Use them on the day of purchase.

PREPARING DRIED RICE NOODLES
Dried noodles can be bought in various packaged forms from most Asian stores and supermarkets. The basic principle is that thinner varieties require less cooking time and are served with light ingredients and thin broths, whereas the thicker noodles take a little longer to cook and are balanced with heavier ingredients and stronger flavours.
Before cooking, dried rice noodles must be soaked in warm water for about 10 minutes, until pliable. The dry weight usually doubles on soaking. The rule is to soak well to soften, but to cook briefly. If the noodles are cooked for too long they will become soggy. Once softened, both the rice vermicelli and rice sticks need to be cooked in boiling water for seconds, rather than minutes, until tender and firm, just like a' dente Italian pasta . Divide the noodles among individual bowls and ladle stock or a meat broth over them or put them in a wok to stir-fry.

MAKING FRESH  RICE NOODLES
A variety of dried noodles are available in Asian stores and supermarkets, but fresh ones are quite different and not that difficult to make. For a snack, the freshly made noodle sheets can be drenched in sugar or honey, or dipped into a sweet or savoury sauce of your choice . Similarly, you can cut them into wide strips and gently stir-fry them with garlic, ginger, chillies and nuoc mam or soy sauce - a popular snack enjoyed in Vietnam.
As a guide to serve four, you will need about 225g cups rice flour to 600ml cups water. You will also need a wide pot with a domed lid, or wok lid, a piece of thin, smooth cotton cloth (like a clean dish towel), and a lightly oiled baking tray.

Preparing the batter
Place the flour in a bowl and stir in a little water to form a smooth paste . Gradually, pour in the rest of the water, whisking all the time to make sure there are no lumps. Beat in a pinch of salt and 15ml vegetable oil. Set aside for 15 minutes.
Preparing the steamer
Meanwhile, fill a wide pot with water. Cut a piece of cloth a little larger than the top of the pot. Stretch it over the top of the pot (you may need someone to help you), pulling the edges down over the sides so that the cloth is as taut as a drum, then wind a piece of string around the edge, securing the cloth with a knot or bow. Using a sharp knife, make 3 small slits, about 2.5cm from the edge of the cloth, at regular intervals. If you need to top up the water during cooking, pour it through these slits.
Cooking the noodle sheets

1. Bring the water in the pot to the boil. Stir the batter and ladle a portion (roughly 30-45ml) on to the cloth, swirling it to form a  10-15cm wide circle.


2. Cover with the domed lid and steam for a minute, until the noodle sheet is translucent. Carefully, insert a spatula or knife under the noodle sheet and gently prize it off the cloth - if it doesn't peel off easily, you may need to steam it for a little longer.


3. Transfer the noodle sheet to the oiled tray and repeat with the rest of the batter. As they accumulate, stack the sheets on top of each other, brushing the tops with oil so they don't stick together. Cover the stack with a clean dish towel to keep them moist.

COOK 'S TIP
During the cooking, you may have to top up the water through one of the slits. The cloth might occasionally  need to be pulled tight again if 1t begins to sag, otherwise the batter will form a pool and be too thick.

MUNG BEAN NOODLES
Also called cellophane or glass noodles (mien). these dried mung bean threads are as thin as rice vermicelli and white in colour. When cooked they turn transparent, resembling strips of cellophane or glass. On the ir own, they do not have much flavour but, when cooked with other ingredients, they absorb the flavours, so they are often used to add texture and starch to mixtures for filling spring rolls.



Soak the delicate noodles in warm water for about  15 minutes, until pliable, and then drain, cut into shorter strands and cook as required.
EGG NOODLES


Made with wheat flour and eggs, the Vietnamese often refer to these as Shanghai-style or  Cambodian  noodles or mi. Firmer and denser than nee noodles, they  are used in stir-fries and soups. They are sold fresh in Asian stores .

Vietnamese Cooking Techniques

The traditional cooking methods of Vietnam require few culinary tools but a great deal of attention to detail. Fresh ingredients are of the utmost importance , followed by the balance of sharp or mild, salty or sweet. bitter or sour. or a combination of all of these flavours . The layering of ingredients is also important, especially in Vietnamese noodle dishes, where flavours  and textures  should complement each other  but remain separate.  Almost every  meal is prepared from scratch, starting with  the  plucking of  chickens and grinding of spices,  followed  by the grilling over charcoal,  gentle simmering and steaming,  or stir-frying. Armed with the correct equipment, the cooking is fairly easy - most of the work is in the preparation.

Grinding and pounding
Spices, herbs and other ingredients are usually ground and pounded in a large, heavy
mortar made of stone. The interior of the mortar should be rough to grip the ingredients and act as an abrasive . The pestle needs to be heavy too, made of the same stone, to provide the right weight for  pounding and grinding.

Grinding is most efficient if the herbs, spices and other ingredients are added in the correct order. First the hard seeds or nuts are ground together, then the fresh herbs, ginger and garlic, followed by the oils or pastes. The mixture is then bound and seasoned and ready for use.
DRY-FRYING
Dried spices are often roasted before grinding to release their natural oils and enhance the aroma . This is done by spreading the spices thinly in a heavy frying pan and putting it over a high heat. As the pan begins to heat, shake it so that the spices don't get too brown.
Once the spices begin lo colour and their aroma fills the a ir, put them in a mortar and grind to a powder.
BRAISING
The classic  method for slow-cooked dishes  is braising. Generally, oily fish, duck and red meat are cooked this way, often with  pungent  herbs, spices and coconut milk or juice. Traditionally, to seal in the  moisture, a covered clay pot is used as the cooking vessel.  Placed over a  medium heat, or in the oven, the cooking  process can  take anything from 30 minutes  to  2 hours, depending on the dish. If you don't  have a clay pot, use a heavy-based casserole. The key is in containing the  moisture  and  even heat distribution, so don't use a thin aluminium pot.

Put all the ingredients in a clay pol and place in a preheated oven. (It can also be placed over a medium heat on the stove if you prefer.

GRILLING OVER CHARCOAL
As conventional grills (broilers) don't exist in most homes in Vietnam and Cambodia, grilling is generally done over hot charcoal. This traditional method of cooking not only lends itself to many types of food, it also enhances the taste. Whole fish, pigs or chickens can be cooked this way. Tasty, marinated morsels of food, skewered on bamboo sticks and grilled in the streets, make popular snacks. When cooking over charcoal, light the coals and wait until they have turned red with grey or white ashes. If the charcoal is too hot, the food will just burn.
Wooden  and bamboo skewers
If you are using wooden or bamboo skewers, soak them in water for about 30 minutes before using to prevent them from burning.
STEAMING

This is a popular way of preparing delicate-tasting foods, such as fish and shellfish. the French-inspired pork pates, and sticky rice cakes wrapped in banana or bamboo leaves. Place the food in a bamboo steamer, which should be lined with leaves if the food isn't wrapped in them. Put the lid on the steamer and set it over a wok that is half-filled with water. Bring the water lo the boil, then reduce the heal and steam the food according to the recipe.
BLANCHING
This method is often used to cook delicate meat such as chicken breast portions or duck.

Place the meat and any flavourings in a pan and add just enough water to cover. Bring to tile boil, then remove from the heat and leave lo stand, covered, for  10 minutes, then drain.
DEEP-FRYING
Use an oil that can be heated to a high temperature, such as groundnut (peanut) oil, and don't put in too much cold food at once. as this will cool the oil down.

1. Pour the oil into a pan or wok  (filling it no more than two-thirds lull) and  heat to about 180°C/350°F. To test  the temperature. add a drop of batter or a piece of onion  If it sinks, the oil is not hot enough; if it burns. it is too hot. If it sizzles and rises to the surface, the temperature is perfect.


2. Cook the food in small batches until crisp and lift out with a slotted spoon or wire mesh skimmer when cooked. Drain on a wire rack lined with kitchen paper and serve immediately, or keep warm in the oven until ready to serve.

Vietnamese traditional bread

The people of Vietnam and Cambodia eat a lot more bread (banh mi) than those in the rest of South-east Asia. Having both been influenced by French colonization and wartime occupation, bread has become a daily feature. Somewhere between a long, crispy French baguette and the wider Middle Eastern loaf, the bread of Vietnam is usually made from a combination of wheat and rice flours and is shorter than a baguette with a slit down the middle. Whether used for grilled meat and salad sandwiches, flavoured with fresh herbs and chillies, or smeared with a local pork pate and a splash of chilli sauce, freshly baked loaves are available in the streets of southern Vietnam just as easily as noodles. Torn into chunks to dip into stews and curries, bread is also served as an alternative to noodles or rice.

And then there is the ice cream sandwich. A popular sweet snack with children thick chunks of baguette are halved lengthways and a wedge of ice cream is tucked in between them - a South-east Asian version of an ice cream cone.
Buns and dumplings fall into the bread category, as they start with a dough  made from wheat flour and yeast. However, following ancient Chinese traditions, buns and dumplings are often stuffed and usually steamed, although some buns are baked after steaming. Flatbreads and wrappers, used for folding around morsels of food and for spring rolls, can also be included in the bread culture. Made from nee or wheat flour, they are baked on griddles, or left in the sunshine to dry.
In the main shopping areas of cities, bakeries and patisseries, stuffed full of enticing, freshly baked cakes, pastries and a variety of sweet and savoury loaves, reflect the French influence, as well as the travels of many refugee Khmer and Vietnamese who have returned to their homelands to set up business. International favourites such as jam tarts, chocolate eclairs, gingerbread men and sponge cakes, all baked on the premises, are enjoyed by passers-by with a good cup of tea or coffee.

Tofu - "poor man's meat" in Vietnam

An  inexpensive  protein food  invented  by the Chinese. bean curd or tofu is now widely  enjoyed  throughout  the world as an alternative to meat or fish.

Tofu
Soya beans are mainly used to make tofu, also known as bean curd (dau hu). It is often referred to as "poor man's meat" in Vietnam. High in protein, incredibly low in calories and devoid of cholesterol. tofu provides essential amino acids, vitamins and minerals for good health. It is made by combining soya bean milk with a coagulant such as gypsum powder to form curds which are then pressed together into blocks.
Highly versatile, it lends itself to stir-frying, grilling (broiling),  steaming, smoking or simmering. It is added to many vegetarian dishes for protein a nd texture , including stir-fries. soups and stuffings. On its own it is bland, but this is the beauty of it, as it has the ability to absorb flavours and is delicious when marinated in Vietnamese flavourings, then stir-fried and served with fresh basil leaves. Fresh tofu, sold in firm blocks packed in water, is available in most health stores. In Asian stores, you may find soft and medium  types. Generally, the soft  silken texture is better for soups and steamed dishes, whereas the medium and firm varieties are best in stir-fries and fillings. Tofu is best used straight away, but, if it is kept submerged in water, which is changed daily, it can be stored for 3-4 days in the refrigerator.

Dried tofu
Also known as "bean curd sticks" in Vietnam, this product (tau hu ky) is made by simmering soya milk until a thin skin forms on top. Traditionally, a long bamboo stick is used to lift the skin off the milk to be hung on a line to dry. As they dry, the skins shrink a little and stiffen, until they resemble tongs or "sticks". Creamy coloured and delicate tasting, this dried tofu is sold in packages in Asian markets to be used in soups and stews. Before using, it must f irst be soaked in water for 20-30 minutes. Dried tofu is also available in sheets which can be used as wrappers for salads and other fillings.

Preserved  tofu
Cubes of fermented tofu (chao) are preserved in salty brine for several months. Before use, the preserved cubes need to be rinsed thoroughly. Strong in flavour, they are used sparingly when added to stir-fries and soups. Preserved tofu can be found in Asian stores.

Fermented tofu
This is made by fermenting fresh tofu on beds of rice straw. then drying the curd in the sun before marinating with salt, alcohol and spices. Finally, it is stored in brine in sealed earthenware urns and left to mature for at least six months before being packaged and sold. It is definitely an acquired taste and is traditionally served either on its own with rice congeeat breakfast , or used in marinating and cooking. Fermented tofu is available from South­ east Asian markets and. once opened, must be stored in the refrigerator.

[caption id="attachment_843" align="aligncenter" width="327"] Fermented tofu[/caption]

Silken tofu
Soft, silken tofu, drizzled with syrup, is sold by vendors as a warm street snack, It is also often used in soups.

Rice and products from Vietnam

In Vietnam, there are three main groups of rice: long grain, short grain, and sticky "glutinous"  rice. The most widely grown and the most frequently consumed  is the long grain; in the cooler northern regions of Vietnam, the plum per short grain sometimes takes preference. Sticky rice is often used in porridge-style dishes and wrapped in banana leaves to make savoury and sweet "ca kes".

Rich in carbohydrate and containing vitamins A and B, rice is one of the healthiest staple foods. It is used to make vinegar and wine, and it is indispensable when ground into flour to make French-style baguettes and crepes, the ubiquitous, paper-thin wrappers used for spring rolls, and dried and fresh noodles. Traditionally rice is boiled or steamed, then may be stir-fried; sticky rice is steamed until it resembles porridge.

In Vietnam, rice is regarded as the "staff of life". It plays an important role as a staple food as well as in the economy and the culture. There are even rigorous rice-cooking competitions based on the tradition of preparing rice for soldiers going into battle. With lush carpeted valleys and hillside terraces of fertile, well-irrigated rice crops, this long, narrow country manages to rank third in the rice-export game, behind t he United States and Thailand , producing a number of varieties that differ in aroma, flavor, and gluten content. Vietnam's principal rice bowls can be found in the land around the Red River in the north and the Mekong Delta in the south.

Within their groups, there a re many types of rice, all of which the Vietnamese  can differentiate by the aroma or taste of the raw grain. When buying, the quality and texture of the grain will be discussed at length as each cook requires a particular rice for the meal that day. Several long grain and glutinous varieties are available in Asian stores and supermarkets.

LONG GRAIN RICE
Gao, or tong grain, rice is the daily staple of all South-east  Asian cooking. Often delicately  scented, such as fragrant jasmine rice, the grains should be dry, thin, firm and translucent when raw. Once steamed the lender grains should still retain some bite and turn white and fluff up easily with a fork. Whether polished or unpolished, aromatic or nutty, long grain rice is used throughout Vietnam and Cambodia as the absorbent bed for many fish and meat curries and stews. The Vietnamese prefer t he long grain jasmine variety (gao thom), cooked using the absorption method.

WHITE  STICKY  GLUTINOUS  RICE
Often referred to as sticky or sweet rice (gao nep), these grains are soaked for several hours, sometimes overnight, before cooking. Glutinous rice comes in both long and short grain varieties. The long grain is used for both savoury and sweet dishes, such as the popular porridge-style dishes of South-east Asia, whereas the plumper short grain is favoured for dumplings, puddings and festive sweets. In contrast to long grain rice, the highly polished, glutinous rice grain is an opaque white colour due to the starch content when raw and turns translucent when cooked. Although the grains retain a degree of firmness, they do tend to stick to one another, thus lending themselves ideally to being handled in clumps and moulded into balls to dip into a sauce, or to be flavoured with a dollop of sweet bean paste, to be used as fillings for cakes wrapped in banana leaves. In the streets of Vietnam, glutinous rice is often eaten as a filling snack, sweetened with a little coconut milk and sugar sprinkled over the top.

BLACK STICKY  GLUTINOUS  RICE
This unpolished, wholegrain glutinous nee is reserved for sweet dishes throughout South-east Asia. When soaked in water and cooked, the grains turn a deep reddish-purple colour. Sometimes called forbidden rice, it has a distinct nutty flavour. More filling than white rice, it is often eaten as a snack, sweetened with coconut milk and sugar.
It is especially popular in the mango and durian season.  Black sticky  rice is available in some Asian markets.

RICE PRODUCTS
The primary staple of Vietnamese cooking, rice is used in many forms.
Rice flour
Bot gao, or rice flour, is made by grinding the raw grain until it is a very fine powder. All types of grain can be used and the packets are usually labelled accordingly. Long grain and medium grain rice flour is used to make the dough for fresh and dried rice noodles, as well as for dumplings, crepes, buns, and the Vietnamese rice papers.
Glutinous  rice flour,  sometimes  called sweet rice flour, is reserved for sweet pastries,  pancakes and cakes. Rice flour, also called rice powder, is available in Asian stores and should be kept in a n airtight container in a dry place.

Toasted  rice flour
Thinh, or toasted  rice flour, imparts a coarser  texture and smoky flavour  to particular  dishes,  such as the Vietnamese speciality of shrimp paste grilled on sticks of sugar  cane.  It is usually made with short grain rice by shaking a few handfuls of the raw grains  in a dry,  heavy-based  pan over  a medium heat, until they turn golden brown. The toasted grains are then ground by hand, using a mortar and pestle, or in a conventional coffee grinder, to a powder. Home-made toasted nee flour tends to be grittier than the commercial fine powders. Store toasted rice flour in an airtight container in a dry place.

Rice papers
Unique to Vietnamese cuisine, these delicate triangular or circular rice papers or wrappers (banh trang), made from rice flour, water and salt, are brittle to hold. They are dried in the open air in the sun on bamboo mats that leave their criss-cross pattern on the wrappers.

Once they have been reconstituted in water, these wrappers are used for making the fried Vietnamese spring rolls (cha gio), and the light summer rolls (goi cuon). They are also put on the table to be used as wrappings for salads, meatballs, grilled meats and stir-fried dishes. Wrapping tasty morsels and dipping them in sauce is a typical Vietnamese way of enjoying a meal.

Not all rice papers are plain, some are flavoured with coconut, ginger or pandanus (similar to vanilla). The papers that are made with glutinous rice flour are toasted so that they puff up and have a chewy texture .
Packets of dried rice papers are available in Asian stores and some supermarkets. Before using, the dried rice papers must be separated and soaked in water, two to four at a time, until soft and pliable. Keep any remaining papers in an airtight container or they will dry out and curl up.

Fresh rice papers
In addition to dried papers, the Vietnamese make fresh rice papers (banh uot), which are used exclusively for wrapping minced (ground) meats.

Rice wine and vinegar
Rice is often distilled to make wine and vinegar. The clear, clean­ tasting vinegar is used for  pickling vegetables  and in cooking. Both the wine and vinegar are made from fermented rice grains which lend a distinct, sharp taste. Bottles are available in Asian and Chinese stores